Comars-les-Alpes

During the 17th century, Colmars-les-Alpes was on the French-Savoyard frontier. Although the Col d'Allos, which it protected was only a feasable invasion route for part of the year due to the climate, the town had been strongly fortified in medieval times, and its defences were improved slightly in 1527 by François I.

In the summer of 1690 the Savoyards attacked over the Col d'Allos, laying siege to Colmars-les-Alpes. The town was able to hold out until the arrival of a contingent of French troops forced the besiegers to retreat back over the pass.

This lead to work on the defences being carried out by Niquet, the governor of Provence. He designed adaptions to the medieval towers, giving them loopholes. In 1692, Vauban visited Colmars, proposing some tower bastions with embrasures.

He thought that an enemy could bring heavy artillery through the pass (Niquet believed this was impossible - the Savoyards had abandoned a light cannon when they retreated over the pass in 1690). Vauban gave instructions for two redoubts to be built on heights either side of the town.

To the north of the town, was fort de Savoie, also known as fort Saint-Martin or fort Desaix. The rear of the fort is well protected, being built on top of a steep rock wall. Its western side leans on the river Verdon and the front of the fort is protected by a triangular wall in front of the entrance.

On the south-east corner of the fort there is a large loopholed tower. The fort has its own barracks, cistern and kitchens, designed for a garrison of 150 men. When Vauban visited again in 1700, he was disappointed, suggesting a bastioned front for the fort, which was never carried out.

To the south of the town, was fort de France, also known as fort du calvaire or fort Soult. This small fort is a simple square redoubt with four embrasures on each side. There are sentry posts on two opposite corners. On the inside, the fort is divided in two by a large traverse.

The defences of Colmars itself are similar to those of Villefrance-de-Conflent, but with a distinct alpine character. As at Villefranche, there is a covered, loopholed parapet running along the top of the wall. The gates are somewhat unusual, retaining their medieval barbicans and protected by two towers. There are tower bastions at intervals along the walls, but the defences are essentially medieval in design. The town is connected to the fort de France and the fort de Savoie by long caponniers.

Visiting Colmars-les-Alpes

The defences of Colmars-les-Alpes itself are relatively well preserved, though a section of the wall in the south no longer exists. It is possible to walk along a large part of the walls (entry at the museum) for a small fee. The fort de Savoie is open and can also be visited - the shop stocks a variety of fortification books, and the fort also contains a museum on fortification in Provence. The fort de France is in good condition on the outside, but the inside is mostly ruined.

The is no train station at Colmars, so it is advisable to take a car unless there is a bus from Barcelonnette. The town is very pleasant, in some ways similar to Entrevaux in atmosphere, as well as in its adapted medieval fortifications.